In Ayurvedic terms, how can Collagen and Beta-carotene support the health and beauty of healthy skin? The skin is the result of many complex transformations and metabolic operations. Vaidya Mishra explained that sometimes, in some people, the physical materials, the physical proteins and other molecules to be transformed into the body’s molecular ‘bricks’ are in short supply.
Collagen, Keratin and Elasten
Two of these ‘bricks’ are keratin and collagen. There are three key ‘beauty’ proteins in the body, collagen, elastin and keratin. Collagen is a type of protein, and works with keratin to provide the skin strength, smoothness, elasticity and resilience. It is produced by the skin and other parts of the body. When you are young, you have an abundance of collagen in your body, which is why young children have such lovely shiny hair and smooth skin. It is referred to be the “cement” which holds everything together. As we age, our body’s production of collagen and other structural proteins starts to slow down, our skin starts to lose its elasticity and, sadly, we start to notice sagging skin, wrinkles, and lines forming around the eyes and mouth.
Furthermore, with time, reactive oxygen molecules, associated with many aspects of aging, lead to increased production of the enzyme collagenase, which breaks down collagen. It’s been found that certain diseases are related to either collagen deficiencies or the lack of its synthesis by the body. Such diseases most commonly arise from a combination of either genetic defects, poor intake of collagen-rich foods, nutritional deficiencies, or digestive problems affecting the production (synthesis) of collagen.
The key detail is that collagen is only found in animals and there is no plant source for collagen. It is the main structural protein in the extracellular space in the various connective tissues in animal bodies (including humans). As the main component of connective tissue, it is the most abundant protein in mammals. Collagen tissues may be rigid (bone), compliant (tendon), or have a gradient from rigid to compliant (cartilage).
Keratin is one of a family of fibrous structural proteins that occurs naturally in hair, nails and skin. Keratin is the protein that protects epithelial cells from damage or stress. It is the key structural material making up the outer layer of human skin. Depending on amino acid levels, it can be hard (as it is in nails) or soft (as it is in skin). No matter what form it’s in, keratin is designed for protection. In our skin, the outer layer (the epidermis) is made up of a layer of dead keratin cells, pushed to the surface by new keratin cells growing underneath. This outer layer provides waterproofing functions as well as strength and elasticity. The loss of strength and elasticity in older skin is due to losing keratin over the years. When the top level of keratin is compromised, the sensitive inner layers are exposed to damage through heat, chemicals, or friction. When skin keratin is damaged, it results in skin looking flaky and dry. Typically, the healthiest skin has the thickest layer of dead keratin protecting the cells underneath.
Keratinization is the process by which keratin hardens. Without the mesh-like outer layer formed by keratinization, the skin would easily break, resulting in frequent infection by foreign invaders like bacteria. Keratin hardens as keratinocytes, found in epithelial cells, produce more and more keratin. Keratin forms a tight mesh, making it impenetrable unless damaged. As these keratinized cells age on the skin, the body sloughs off the dead or damaged cells.
Collagen facial creams have been around for decades. But do any of them really work? Not really, because the collagen does not get absorbed, since collagen is quite a large molecule, and it does not penetrate the skin but stays idly on top of it, and gets washed off. Same applies to keratin. Certain creams containing keratin do seem to fair a little better in terms of results but many do not, especially those keratin products made with excessive heat which damages the proteins, changes the properties, and making them useless. The point here is the same as with supplementation. Once it is determined that there is a deficiency, we try to supplement things externally, because the body is not producing enough on its own. But most of the time the oral or transdermal supplementation is neither absorbed nor utilized by the body. So how can we support this?
All the power of transformation to make collagen and use keratin is supported through the presence of wild harvested Centella asiatica (Gotu Kola) in high quantities in Vaidya’s Lalita creams. Vaidya called this herb a ‘maha twaga’ rasayana – a great or the very best rasayana for the skin.
Modern science agrees:
• The centella asiatica (gotu kola) extract asiaticoside is well-known to promote skin connective tissue repair and wound healing.
• In a study assessing the exact biology of this action of asiaticoside on skin and connective tissue repair, it was found that asiaticoside affected the expression of 54 genes related to connective tissue function!
• Specifically, asiaticoside upregulated the expression of genes related to fibroblast “cell proliferation, cell-cycle progression and synthesis of the extracellular matrix”.
• This, in simple terms, means that collagen cells mature and multiply faster and produce more collagen and other connective tissue proteins.
• In another study it was found that asiaticoside boosted the secretion of collagen type I (the hard collagen that gives firmness to skin and connective tissue) and collagen type III (the softer, “baby collagen”, which is produced before collagen type I and helps with connective tissue repair and regeneration).
Beta-carotene is the one other ingredient also key for beautiful skin. Looking at beta-carotene we find that it is effective in conditions like dry skin, eczema and psoriasis. Vitamin A, being a powerful antioxidant, is involved in the growth and repair of body tissues and hence, protects the skin against damage. When applied externally, it helps in treating ulcers, impetigo, boils, carbuncles and open ulcers, and removes age spots. It also speeds up the healing of skin lesions, cuts and wounds. Beta-carotene helps premature skin ageing by acting as an antioxidant, a substance that reduces oxygen damage caused by UV light, pollutions and other environmental hazards like smoking. Adequate intake and transformation of beta carotene imparts luster, making the skin more attractive and beautiful. Last, but not least, beta-carotene can even help reduce sun sensitivity.
Please note: as already mentioned, collagen is found only in animals. There are no plant sources of collagen. We use animal collagen sourced exclusively from organically-raised chickens. The beta-carotene is derived from organic carrots.
Now you can use any of your favorite Lalita’s Facial Cream enhanced with natural collagen & beta-carotene: Vaidya incorporated the new ingredients into all the original Lalita’s Age Defying Cream (with aroma) and into the Pearl and Jasmine- Lalita’s Age Defying Cream. (Those who prefer not to have any animal products in their creams can still use the original versions of these two creams without Collagen and Beta Carotene)
The Lalita’s Age Defying Line of Facial Creams
• Lalita’s Age Defying Cream (with or without aroma)
Making preserve out of rose petals is a very old tradition in many cultures – whether in India, in the Middle East, as well as Europe. However, not all recipes and preserves will have a balancing effect. In India, Rose Preserve is very popular and is called: Gulkand. It is readily available everywhere. But it is usually made with white sugar – we know that the consumption of white sugar depletes our bodies of minerals and lowers our pH, so you want to avoid that. Also, many recipes do not use Rosa Centifolia. Other varities of rose have different properties, so you want to be careful when you are purchasing a rose preserve that it was actually made with Rosa Centifolia.
In addition, many times, the recipes use vinegar, or citric acid, as well as synthetic scent or aroma, or color, to enhance the look and flavor. These are all carcinogenic ingredients you want to steer clear of.
Sometimes preserves sitting on shelves get oxidized or fermented if the formula is not balanced enough. You should watch out.
Vaidya Mishra carefully formulated his SVA Rose Petal Preserve according to his ancient ayurvedic precepts. He used natural ascorbic acid balances the sugar molecules. In addition, he used pectine which micro-encapsulates the sugar molecules, so that they do not rush into your blood stream and give you a sugar high. Pectine also modulates the sugar molecules to give sustained release into the body. He added natural essence of Rose Absolute, for enhanced rose properties in addition to organic rose bud petals. Fall in love once more, with and through Vaidya’s SVA preserve jars of pure rose bliss! For a blissful start of your day, you can add some Rose Presrve to your breakfast, but DO NOT ADD to your milk, as the ascorbic acid in this recipe will curdle your milk and cause indigestion. Here’s another delicious recipe from Vaidya for a day-time snack, specially in hot summers, prep time: 3 minutes:
Mix:
4 tsp raisins – any kind you like
4 tsp dry toasted pine-nuts
2 tsp Rose Petal Preserve
Mix all the ingredients together and carry with you in a jar. You can snack on this throughout the day for a sustaining bliss-inducing quick pick-me-up!
This recipe is Pitta and Vata Pacifying. It can also pacify Kapha dosha – add ½ tsp fresh ground Black pepper.
You can keep any unused portions and consume for 3-4 days.
Here’s wishing you all only rosy days ….
STUDY SVAyurveda @ NorthWest Institute
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We had our final live-streamed session on April 30: we covered specific formulations for SVA Marma Therapy and delved into additional related topics. It was a fabulous final live session, and we were all sad to conclude this portion of the course. We all look forward to when we will be able to get together for our practicum weekend and practice our newly acquired skills. Until then, we will be staying in touch via our virtual classroom and communicating via messenger.
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